Tori Crowther

There's no denying that the term "skin-care acids" sounds scary, but we promise there's no reason to be fearful of them. When used correctly, acids - we're talking alpha hydroxy acids, beta hydroxy acids, and poly hydroxy acids, to name a few - can be one of the most powerful ingredients in your routine (it's why they're often referred to as "actives"). However, choosing the wrong one for your skin type or accidentally overusing them can have adverse effects. There are no two ways about it: navigating the world of at-home skin-care acids is really, really confusing, primarily because there are so many different kinds with hard-to-pronounce names. That's why we've called in the experts - six to be exact - to help you figure out what each acid does and what skin type it works best for. Before diving into each acid and its use, let's first look at what a skin-care acid is, how at-home acids differ from professional ones, and where acids fit into your routine. What Exactly Is a Skin-Care Acid? A skin-care acid is an active ingredient that targets specific skin issues, which many of them do through exfoliation. They can come in the form of a cleanser, toner, serum, peel, and spot treatment, although you can sometimes find them added into creams and oils as well. When it comes to all the different kinds of acids used in skin care, you can really break them up into two categories: hydroxy acids and everything else. Hydroxy acids work by dissolving dead skin cells from the surface of your skin, "helping to make your skin less dull by chemically exfoliating it," Amelie Seghers, consultant dermatologist at London's Cadogan Clinic, tells PS. The level of exfoliation differs depending on the type and strength of the acid in a product's formula. Acids that are not part of the hydroxy acid family still offer a whole host of benefits; while some do offer a little exfoliation, they also unclog pores, treat hyperpigmentation, reduce fine lines, and prevent breakouts. Hydroxy acids are divided into three subcategories: alpha hydroxy acids (water-soluble exfoliation), beta hydroxy acids (oil-soluble exfoliation), and poly hydroxy acids (gentle, water-soluble exfoliation). Each acid in these categories helps to exfoliate the skin (among many other benefits, but we'll get into that later). AHA, BHA, and PHAs differ from each other due to their molecule size. In simple terms: an AHAs have smaller-size molecules that are able to deeply penetrate the skin, producing quicker results but also causing potential irritation to some skin types. PHAs, on the other hand, are made up of larger molecules, which don't penetrate the skin as deeply and therefore are less irritating for sensitive skin types. To make things more confusing, there are plenty of other exfoliating acids that don't fit into these categories, including dicarboxylic acid, which supports antimicrobial activity, according to The Inkey List cofounder Mark Curry, as well as an antioxidant that brightens your complexion and reduces hyperpigmentation. There's even an acid that doesn't exfoliate at all but rather hydrates. What's the Difference Between At-Home Acids and Clinical Acid Peels? At-home acids are a lot less concentrated than professional acids used in a dermatology clinic. Stronger concentrations typically produce more dramatic results than at-home peels as they penetrate deeper into the skin. But this doesn't mean the stronger the better when using acids at home. If your skin is sensitive, choosing a strong acid will likely only increase irritation (unless instructed otherwise by a dermatologist, of course) resulting in a compromised skin barrier (the outer layer of our skin, which protects against moisture loss), which essentially means red, sore, and peeling skin. How to Incorporate an Acid Into Your Skin-Care Routine? Fitting an acid into your routine should be done with patience and caution; "low and slow" is a phrase often used in the industry when it comes to introducing any active ingredient. Once you've determined which acid is best for your skin type, it's best to start with a low percentage and begin using it a couple times a week, and then slowly increase frequency - and if necessary, percentage - as your skin tolerates it. It's important to remember that no skin-care product should be burning your face. It's not a sign of something happening or working. If you get irritation from a product, stop using it immediately. Oh, and one last thing before we get into the different types of acids: acids can make your skin more sensitive to the sun, so if you use them, you must wear sunscreen every day - yes, even when it's cloudy. Alpha Hydroxy Acids Alpha Hydroxy Acids, or AHAs as they're commonly referred to, are "natural water-soluble acids made from plant or animal products such as sugar, milk, and fruit," Ife J Rodney, MD, founding director of Eternal Dermatology + Aesthetics in Columbia, says. "AHAs work by helping to break the bonds between surface skin cells in order to increase peeling and cell turnover. They also stimulate collagen production in deeper skin layers, which results in more youthful, radiant-looking skin with a more even skin tone and texture." AHAs are best for people wishing to target early signs of aging, uneven skin tone, and clogged pores. Glycolic Acid: Glycolic acid is one of the most common AHAs. It's naturally derived from sugarcane and has the smallest molecular size, making it one of the strongest acids as it can penetrate deep into the skin. This means that it can have impressive results when used correctly. "Glycolic acid gives the best result on smoothing fine wrinkles, treating pigmentation, and general exfoliation," Kristina Semkova, consultant dermatologist at the Cadogan Clinic, says. Due to its molecular size, it can cause "irritation for sensitive skin, so use it cautiously," Dr. Semkova added. Not building up your skin's tolerance can result in a compromised skin barrier. Dermatologist-Approved Glycolic Acid Products: Cleanser: SkinCeuticals Glycolic Renewal Gel Cleanser ($42) Serum: Murad Vita-C Glycolic Brightening Serum ($88) Lactic Acid: As you probably guessed, lactic acid is derived from milk. It has a larger molecule size than glycolic acid, and while that means it's not as powerful as glycolic acid, it does mean it's a better option if you have sensitive skin. "Lactic acid is less active than glycolic but is kind to the skin and can be used daily to exfoliate and hydrate the skin with minimal side effects," Dr. Semkova says. "Not only does the lactic acid unclog pores and turn over the cell layers, but it also acts as a humectant [at low concentrations] to seal moisture into the skin," Dr. Rodney says. Lactic acid is also great for reducing acne-causing bacteria. Dermatologist-Approved Lactic Acid Products: Cleanser: Dermalogica Age Smart Skin Resurfacing Cleanser ($48) Serum: The Ordinary Lactic Acid 10% + HA 2% ($9) Mandelic Acid: If you have sensitive skin but still want to try an AHA, then mandelic acid might be your best option. It's derived from bitter almonds and has a larger molecule than other AHAs, meaning "it penetrates the skin slowly and causes less irritation," Dr. Rodney says. This is what makes it the best choice for sensitive skin. Additionally, "it has an antibacterial effect and unclogs the pores, making it a good treatment for acne and rosacea-prone skin," Dr. Semkova says. Dermatologist-Approved Mandelic Acid Products: Cleanser: Medik8 Surface Radiance Cleanse ($18, originally $25) Serum: Allies of Skin Mandelic Pigmentation Corrector Night Serum ($84) Malic Acid: Malic acid is derived from apples and is "less researched than glycolic or lactic acid and isn't as effective as an exfoliant on its own," Mary Sommerlad, a London-based consultant dermatologist, says. Instead, malic acid is often "used as an additional ingredient to help other more active exfoliants work more efficiently and with less irritation." This acid is particularly great for acne-prone skin and people wishing to target hyperpigmentation. Dermatologist-Approved Malic Acid Products: Cleanser: Dermalogica Daily Superfoliant ($66) Toner: Kate Somerville Triple Acid Resurfacing Treatment ($68) Tartaric Acid: Tartaric acid is an antioxidant that is part of the AHA group. "It's the predominant antioxidant in wine, and in skin care, it is often derived from grapes and tamarind", Dr. Sommerlad says, adding that "although tartaric acid is part of the AHA family, it's not as potent an exfoliator as more commonly used AHAs like glycolic acid or lactic acid. Instead, it's mainly added to skin-care ingredients to regulate the pH levels." Dr. Seghers echoes this: "There are not many products with tartaric acid alone as often you have a combination of AHAs together because they work synergistically. This helps to reduce side effects compared to when you only use one of the AHAs and have to go up much higher in concentration to achieve the same efficacy." Dermatologist-Approved Tartaric Acid Products: Cleanser: Zelens Z Detox Clarifying Foaming Cleanser ($80) Serum: Tula Pro-Glycolic 10% pH Resurfacing Gel ($46) Citric Acid: As the name suggests, "citric acid is an acid derived from citrus fruits such as lemons or lime," consultant dermatologist Dr. Shaaira Nasir says. Part of the AHA group, citric acid helps to unclog pores, reduce pigmentation, hydrate your skin, and make skin look more even in tone. "It's also used in skin care to adjust the pH level, preventing a product from being too alkaline," Dr. Nasir adds. Dermatologist-Approved Citric Acid Products Cleanser: Holifrog Shasta AHA Refining Acid Wash ($38) Peel: Estée Lauder Perfectionist Pro Instant Resurfacing Peel with 9.9% AHAs + BHA ($51) Beta Hydroxy Acids "Beta Hydroxy Acid (BHA) is another acid commonly used in dermatology and cosmetics," Dr. Rodney says. "Unlike AHAs, which are water-soluble, BHAs are oil-soluble, which allows them to penetrate our skin's oil glands to remove debris and dead cells from deep within the pores." There is actually just one BHA and that's salicylic acid. Salicylic Acid: Salicylic acid is the BHA used in skin care and is derived from willow bark. Due to the ingredient's large molecule size, BHAs are best for oily and acne-prone skin, says Dr. Ifeoma Ejikeme, skin expert and medical director of Adonia Medical Clinic. Begin by using it twice a week and gradually increase if you don't have any reactions. "Salicylic acid is a good exfoliator and helps with treating stubborn pigment left behind after healing spots, in addition to promoting the turnover of dead skin cells," Dr. Semkova says. When combined with AHAs, salicylic acid makes a great exfoliator for acne-prone skin that already shows signs of aging. Additionally, it has antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties. However, Dr. Semkova also explains that "salicylic acid and aspirin belong to the same family, so the acid shouldn't be used if you have a known allergy to aspirin." Dermatologist-Approved Salicylic Acid Products Cleanser: CeraVe Renewing SA Cleanser ($18) Moisturizer: La Roche-Posay Effaclar Mat Mattifying Moisturizer for Oily Skin ($36) Poly Hydroxy Acids "Poly Hydroxy Acids (PHAs) are the third, lesser-known sibling of the hydroxy acids (AHA and BHAs)," Dr. Seghers says. "Unlike AHAs and BHAs, which are smaller [in molecule size], PHAs are bigger and therefore cannot penetrate as deep into the skin. They work by sloughing off the most superficial layer of skin, helping with textural issues, fine lines, and brown spots without being as irritating, so they are ideal for those with sensitive skin," New York City-based, board-certified dermatologist Shereene Idriss says. Even some people with eczema and rosacea can use PHAs, although it's always best to get individual, expert advice from a dermatologist to make sure you don't exacerbate your condition by introducing acids. Lactobionic Acid: "Lactobionic acid is a PHA derived from lactose, often used as a liquid exfoliator," Dr. Sommerlad says. Although they're not the same thing, lactobionic acid both sounds and acts a lot like lactic acid. "Due to its larger molecule size, lactobionic acid penetrates the skin less and therefore is a much more gentle exfoliant than AHAs," Dr. Sommerlad says. In addition to exfoliation, lactobionic acid is also a good humectant, which essentially means it helps retain moisture keeping your skin hydrated. Lactobionic acid is also great for treating rough skin on the body and keratosis pilaris, which is sometimes referred to as "chicken skin". Dermatologist-Approved Lactobionic Acid Products: Moisturizer: Neostrata Bionic Face Cream ($66) Toner: Medik8 Press and Glow ($30) Gluconolactone Acid: Gluconolactone acid is a sugar acid and, like lactobionic acid, is best for dry and sensitive skin types as it helps to exfoliate and hydrate your skin at the same time. Turns out, it's also great at keeping skin looking and feeling youthful. "Gluconolactone acid combats glycation, the process that weakens collagen and elastin in skin," Dr. Nasir says. Dermatologist-Approved Gluconolactone Acid Products: Serum: Herbivore Bakuchiol Smoothing Serum ($56) Toner: The Inkey List PHA Toner ($14) Galactose Acid: The final PHA is galactose acid, and it doesn't differ much from the other two. Again, it's milder and more suitable for sensitive skin types and additionally is said to help speed up skin's healing. When it comes to skin-care products, there are few products that include the galactose acid as its hero ingredient. Basically, there aren't really any products available that have galactose acid as a hero ingredient, as it's normally used in combination with gluconolactone and lactobionic acids. Other Acids That Don't Fit Into AHA, BHA, or PHA Categories To make things a little more tricky, there are a number of acids don't fit into any of the hydroxy acid categories. These acids don't exfoliate like AHA, BHA, and PHAs but have many other excellent properties. Some are antioxidants, others have an entirely different molecular makeup to hydroxy acids, and one is a medication that's now been introduced into the world of skin care. Ahead, get to know what the experts had to say about each of these special, yet equally as effective, acids. Azelaic Acid: Chemically, azelaic acid is a dicarboxylic acid and is a naturally occurring acid produced by yeast that is found on the skin. For cosmetic products, it can be derived from grains such as barley, wheat, and rye, but most commonly created synthetically. "The lab-engineered version is most often used in skin care not only due its stability, but also so that it's safe for those with a gluten intolerance," Dr. Sommerlad says. "Strictly speaking, it's not an exfoliator, the same way AHAs, BHAs, and PHAs are, but it does help stabilize the production of keratin, which can has an exfoliating effect," London-based dermatologist Cristina Soma says. "Classically exfoliators loosen the bonds that hold our skin cells together allowing them to shed. Azelaic acid, however, does not do this but modifies how we make keratin, the structural protein in our skin," which can decrease mild breakouts. "Azelaic acid is used by dermatologists at prescription-strength for the treatment of rosacea, acne, and pigmentation," said Dr. Soma. It works well as a treatment for these conditions due to the fact it gently exfoliates the surface layers of the skin and features both antibacterial and antioxidant properties. Azaleic acid also treats hyperpigmentation by "inhibiting tyrosinase, a key step in the production of brown melanin pigment in the skin," Dr. Rodney says. Due to azelaic acid being quite mild (unless using prescription-strength), dermatologists recommend that some people combine it with other exfoliating ingredients like AHA and BHAs. Dr. Rodney also noted that one of its major benefits is that it's considered safe during pregnancy, which a few other hydroxy acids aren't. Regardless, you should always speak to your doctor about using the ingredient while pregnant. Dermatologist-Approved Azaleic Acid Products: Cream: The Ordinary Azelaic Acid Suspension 10% ($12) Serum: Facetheory Porebright N10 Serum ($31) Treatment: Finacea or Skinoren - available on prescription only Succinic Acid: Another form of dicarboxylic acid, succinic acid is the newest kid on the skin care block - recently thrust into the spotlight thanks to The Inkey List's new Succinic Acid Blemish treatment - although it's been used in medical circles for years. What is it and what makes it so great? Succinic acid is naturally found in amber and sugar cane and has been used for centuries in traditional medicine thanks to its antimicrobial properties. Recent studies have shown the ingredient to be a hero when it comes to its "skin re-conditioning and antioxidant properties", Curry says. "These factors could bring this ingredient up there with the likes of retinol and vitamin C." Unlike a lot of other acids, rather than targeting something specific, succinic acid has a broad, multitargeted efficacy, which basically means, it does a lot. Its antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties make it great at reducing acne, excess oil-production, and fine lines - all while being gentle enough for more sensitive skin types. Dermatologist-Approved Succinic Acid Products: Treatment: The Inkey List Succinic Acid Blemish Treatment ($13) Ferulic Acid: Ferulic acid is an antioxidant that is "botanically derived from the cell walls of plants like oats, apples, brown rice, and oranges, but is often created in the lab as it is cheaper and more consistent," Dr. Seghers says. "Ferulic Acid is often used to help stabilize less-stable antioxidants and potentiate their effects," Dr. Sommerlad says, adding that "it is oftentimes combined with L-ascorbic acid (vitamin C) to boost the effects and prolong shelf life." Dr. Seghers agrees, saying: "ferulic acid is a powerful antioxidant that boosts the performance of other antioxidants, which is why it's typically combined with vitamin C, vitamin E, and resveratrol, as together they work better than alone - enhancing stability and efficacy." Although it doesn't fit into the hydroxy acid categories, it's just as affective as an ingredient. "Antioxidants help to neutralize free-radical damage from pollution (which causes a loss of elasticity, dryness, and dark spots, to name a few) and ultraviolet light (which causes premature aging and increased chances of skin cancer), which in turn, helps to slow down the process of skin aging," Dr. Seghers says. This powerful antioxidant is safe for most skin types; however, it can cause irritation for some people with sensitive skin. Dr. Seghers recommends trying a tester behind your ear first to avoid causing potential irritation to your entire face. Dermatologist-Approved Ferulic Acid Products: Serum: Skinceuticals CE Ferulic ($182) Serum: Paula's Choice C15 Super Booster ($44) Ascorbic Acid: Ascorbic acid - also known as L-ascorbic acid - is the most potent form of vitamin C. Both Drs Sommerlad and Seghers agree that it's a hero skin-care ingredient because it's so effective for multiple different skin concerns. A powerful antioxidant, ascorbic acid helps to reduce the effects of pollution on the skin, lightens dark marks such as sun spots, stimulates collagen, and brightens up your overall complexion. "To be effective in a skin-care routine, [ascorbic acid] must be kept in a dark bottle and away from air and sunlight (think: dark bottle with a pump or dropper bottle) and should be used in the morning after cleaning and before moisturizers and sunscreen," Dr. Sommerlad says. "Ascorbic acid works best in combination with vitamin E and ferulic acid," Dr. Seghers says. Dermatologist-Approved Ascorbic Acid Products: Serum: Skinceuticals CE Ferulic ($182) Tranexamic Acid: "Tranexamic acid is a drug originally designed to reduce blood loss and is on the World Health Organiazation (WHO) list of essential drugs precisely for this reason," Dr. Sommerlad says. "Over time, it became clear that it has additional benefits such as improving the pigmentation seen in melasma," Dr. Seghers says. "It is derived from the amino acid lysine, and is known as an antifibrinolytic. In skin care, it can either be used in topical form, which you can get over the counter, or in oral form via prescription from a dermatologist," Dr. Sommerlad says. In skin-care formulations, tranexamic acid is now used to reduce excessive pigmentation and works by "disrupting the the formation of melanin and the way it is transferred to skin cells," Dr. Sommerlad says. "It has excellent qualities in improving the appearance of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation and melasma with less side effects compared to hydroquinone (a skin lightening agent). Orally, it has been shown to be safe and effective in the management of melasma." Oral use of tranexamic acid must be taken with the guidance of a dermatologist as side effects can include things like hand swelling. Dermatologist-Approved Tranexamic Acid Products: Serum Treatment: The Inkey list Tranexamic Acid Night Treatment ($17) Serum: Skinceuticals Discoloration Defense Serum ($110) Retinoic Acid: Retinoic acid "is the scientific name for the gold standard anti-aging product more commonly known as tretinoin," Dr. Sommerlad says. The ingredient can be a little confusing, but stay with us. Retinoic acid belongs in a group called retinoids, which is the "umbrella term for the entire family of vitamin A derivatives," Dr. Serghers says. You've probably heard of other retinoids such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate, all of which are available over the counter. Retinoic acid, on the other hand, is only available on prescription. The reason? Well, the over-the-counter retinoids must undergo a conversion process in the skin to turn into retinoic acid so that the skin can make use of it, essentially making the ingredient less potent. "Over-the-counter retinoids have to convert in the skin to retinoic acid, which is why, depending on how many conversion steps there are, they may take longer to work," Dr. Sommerlad says. When you get retinoic acid in its pure form, however, your skin doesn't need to covert it to make use of it. This makes retinoic acid the most powerful of all the retinoids and the quickest to get to work - and exactly why it's only available on prescription. When it comes to retinoic acid, there are a multitude of benefits, which include regulating skin cell turnover (so helping with exfoliation), reducing oiliness, improving the appearance of hyperpigmentation, helping to reduce acne, and stimulating collagen. Although, because retinoic acid is so powerful, it does come with some potential side effects. It can cause irritation, redness, dryness, and even some flaking. Dermatologists recommend using retinoic acid at night and stress the need to wear SPF in the day. But since it's a prescription-only ingredient, your doctor or dermatologist will explain the ins and outs of use. If you're just starting out in your retinoid journey, you might want to consider working up to retinoic acid. "While retinoic acid is the most effective, it can be less well-tolerated for retinoid newbies," Dr. Serghers says. If you aren't quite ready to go for full-on retinoic acid, or have sensitive skin, Dr. Ejikeme recommended trying retinaldehyde (also known as "retinal") first. If you use it at 0.025 or 0.5 percent, it still offers skin-improving results but is generally better tolerated for sensitive skin. Dermatologist-Approved Retinoid Products: Treatment: Tretinoin - available on prescription only Hyaluronic Acid: While it has acid in its name, unlike all of the other ingredients in this round up, hyaluronic acid isn't exfoliating in the slightest. "In the skin, hyaluronic acid is not a true acid, but rather is a naturally occurring sugar that traps water in your skin - up to 1,000 times its weight - and binds it to collagen, the result of which is plump, youthful skin," Dr. Rodney says. "Our bodies produce less and less hyaluronic acid as we age, and our skin becomes dehydrated more easily. That is why hyaluronic acid has become such an important part of skin-care regimens," she adds. Hyaluronic acid is suitable for most skin types and is often used underneath moisturizer. Dermatologist-Approved Hyaluronic Acid Products: Serum: Dr. Lara Devgan Hyaluronic Serum ($245) Moisturizer: SkinMedica Dermal Repair Cream ($134) - Additional reporting by Renee Rodriguez Tori Crowther is a freelance beauty journalist and former PS UK editor. Renee Rodriguez is a staff writer and social producer for PS. She writes across all verticals, but her main areas of expertise focus on fashion and beauty content with an emphasis on reviews and editor experiments. She also produces social content for POPSUGAR's TikTok and Instagram accounts.

Hot styling tools, hair coloring, tight topknots, chemical styling - many of us put our hair through a lot, which often results in damage and loss of shine. Over time, this can lead to hair looking dull, frayed, and less defined. To combat this and help repair damage, deep-conditioning treatments and hair masks are typically the first port of call. But second to that are gloss and shine treatments. Many hair gloss treatments were first offered in salons (and are still popular in-salon treatments) as add-ons for hair dyeing, but there are now plenty of at-home versions worth trying. For those without access to a salon, these at-home shine treatments can give your hair a new lease on life (think: healthy, glossy, vibrant) in a matter of minutes. A gloss is a semipermanent treatment that adds vibrancy back into colored hair, evens out tone or brassiness, and adds shine. "If you have highlighted hair, what you're trying to do is eliminate either yellow or orange tones," Jack Howard, balayage expert and educator at Paul Edmonds salon in London, tells PS. "If your hair is generally looking washed out, you want to either enhance the color or add a bit of warmth in there. So, essentially, you either want to enhance your color or neutralize tones through it." Most gloss treatments are done in the salon, but there has been a spike in at-home versions, which often last four to six weeks. "The biggest difference between at-home and in-salon gloss treatments is simply the range of color possibilities," says Steven Picciano, hairstylist and national artist for Goldwell. "The stylist has the ability to create your perfect color, achieving the best possible application. It is much easier for your stylist to apply evenly and saturate well - two things that impact the end result of a color gloss." If it sounds like your hair color could use some love, keep scrolling to shop the best at-home hair glosses on the market.

Make no mistake: face masks are an effective (and often luxurious) part of any skin-care routine, but there can be a lot of confusion around exactly how to use them. This is especially true given the fact that there are so many variations of masks on the market to choose from, from clay formulas to exfoliating treatments to masks you can leave on while you sleep. The first question that often comes to mind is whether you should cleanse or wash your face after using a face mask. Does that undo all the work, rinsing all the progress you've made to your complexion down the drain? Or, is it a necessary step to get rid of any gunk that might be lingering after you towel off the treatment? It turns out, the answer has a lot to do with what type of mask you're using. If that sounds confusing, don't worry, we're here to give you the lowdown on the exact cleansing rules to keep in mind for every type of formula - from mud masks and paper sheets to overnight treatments and beyond. Check out our answers to whether you should wash your face after each type of face mask, and why, ahead.

Image Source: Getty/Steve Granitz/FilmMagic Men's nail art and nail polish is not just a trend. It never has been and never will be. It's embedded in thousands of years of history - you just might not know it. Sure, in the last few years we saw more men with manicures on the red carpet than ever before - and most notably, in 2021 Harry Styles, Tyler the Creator, and Machine Gun Kelly all launched nail-polish brands within weeks of each other - but men caring for their nails didn't just appear out of nowhere. You can go back 30 years and point to Kurt Cobain's chipped red polish, or 50 years ago to David Bowie's press-on nails. You can even go back 4,000 years ago and find evidence of ancient Egyptian manicurists buried in noble tombs. What started to change this decade is men are not only thinking of their nails as an accessory, the same way they would a watch or a necklace. They're also using their nails as a way to reject the age-old ideas of masculinity, champion gender-neutrality, and rewrite a new set of rules with one intention: creative expression and freedom. We wanted to dig deeper into how we went from warriors getting manicures before heading into battle to punk rockers sporting black polish as a rejection of societal norms, and how that eventually influenced some of the biggest artists today. Read on to discover how we got here, and how each era changed the way men wore and accessed nail care, resulting in some of the most phenomenal manicures to date. "No man of importance would permit himself to be seen in public unless he had been beautified." Going Into Battle Called For a Trip to the Salon The earliest records of men grooming their nails can be traced back to around 3500 BC when Babylonian warriors would prepare for battle with beauty rituals. "No man of importance would permit himself to be seen in public unless he had been beautified," David Yi wrote in his book, "Pretty Boys: Legendary Icons Who Redefined Beauty", when speaking about findings from an excavation at the ancient Mesopotamian city of Ur. "Warriors adorned their nails with ground minerals as part of a pre-battle ritual designed to intimidate their enemies," according to a 2018 paper from The University of Rochester Medical Center. Image Source: Elizabeth Frood. Manicure scene taken from Niankhkhnum and Khnumhotep's tomb Egyptians Had Their Favorite Manicurists, Too There are also early indications of ancient Egyptian men taking care of their hands and feet. "A number of Old Kingdom (c. 2575-2150 BCE) elite tomb chapels include scenes of men receiving nail treatments," Elizabeth Frood, associate professor of Egyptology at the University of Oxford, tells PS. In the Old Kingdom, there were numerous titles connected to the care of the king's body, which included a manicurist. In all of these scenes showing the manicurists, it is men who received and gave the treatments. "Considering the potency and power of the royal body, individuals able to touch him and transform his body must have had extremely high status simply through their capacity to perform these actions," Frood says. "Their status is also indicated by the fact that some have monumental and richly decorated tombs." Nails were also dressed up for the afterlife. Little gold caps were placed on fingers and toes, "however this is less about [the] display of the nails in particular, and more about the overall transformation and divination of the body," Frood says. The two most famous royal manicurists of the Old Kingdom were Niankhkhnum and Khnumhotep (pictured here), who were most likely brothers (possibly twins or perhaps lovers), and shared a tomb complex at Saqqara. "The displays of intimacy between them have also led to suggestions that they may have been a gay couple, and so their story has entered into LGBTQ+ discourses for the ancient world," says Frood, which Professor Richard Parkinson further explained in "A Little Gay History: Desire and Diversity across the World." These Old Kingdom scenes of grooming and displays of manicurist roles largely disappear from later ancient Egyptian periods, which in itself is an interesting development to Frood. "I'm sure these practices retained their salience, as evidenced by the care to depict elite individuals with neatly trimmed finger and toenails on their statues and in two-dimensional representation - also a likely status marker," she says. The New Kingdom scribes were proud of their soft, delicate limbs and hands. Image Source: Getty You've Got the Ming Dynasty to Thank For Your Gel Extensions The Ancient Egyptians focused on detailed nail care. Farther east, however, men were focused on extreme nail length, a practice that originated in the Ming dynasty but became popular in the Qing dynasty. Extreme nail length and guards were used to signal elite status, as they were "a clear marker that he or she performed no manual labor", author Suzanne E. Shapiro explained in "Nails: A Story of the Modern Manicure." History shows us that in the ancient world, caring for nails and feet was very much a part of men's general grooming routine; one that often helped them display their wealth, strength, or status. In all of my research, I could find very little information on men's nail grooming habits beyond the ancient era (perhaps a result of colonialism and the increased influence of Western Europe over the world?). When people started beautifying their nails again in the 1900s, the focus was primarily on women. Men simply helped women achieve these newly forming beauty standards, whether through new inventions or the creation and marketing of beauty brands. The Boom of Red Polish Fast forward to the 1930s and the story of men's attitude toward nail care was a very different one, with the focus predominantly on men helping women use beauty to enhance their appearance versus their own. There was a large wave of anxiety for women being seen as lower class if their cuticles weren't seen to, and many new products on the market helped "alleviate" these worries and uphold this standard. At the same time, brothers Charles and Joseph Revson, along with chemist Charles Lachman, developed Revlon's first cream nail enamel that was made from pigment versus dye, allowing the polish to be fully opaque. Revlon created a variety of colors (and before Revlon, dye-based polishes were available in a variety of hues), but the biggest nail color trend of the 1930s was undoubtedly red. But as reported in "Nails: A Story of the Modern Manicure," it seems that a lot of men weren't keen on the bright red polish boom. "For God's sake do something about bright red nail polish. We wish to high heaven you would throw the damn stuff in the ocean," one male college student said in a 1935 survey. For men in the first half of the 20th century, the pressure and focus was on the woman in their lives upholding certain beauty (and nail) standards. "Obtaining and keeping a man had always been part of the gospel of self-beautification, and now it seemed the much more noble a duty as men were sent off to war," Shapiro says. Vietnamese-Owned Salons Created a New Wave of Accessibility The attitude that nail-care outside of the home was reserved for the higher class changed with a group of Vietnamese women and the help of an unlikely star: Tippi Hedren. As part of her philanthropic efforts, the Hollywood actress visited a Vietnamese refugee camp in California in 1975 and was determined to find jobs for the women in the camp. Hedren recalled the women being fascinated by her manicured nails, so she decided to fly in her personal manicurist to teach the craft to a group of 20 of the women refugees. Today, the US nail industry is dominated by Vietnamese Americans who have carved out lucrative careers as nail salon owners. These salons forever changed the way both women and men access and enjoy nail art in the US and worldwide. Image Source: Getty The '70s and '80s Set The Scene For the Menicure It's in the 1970s and '80s that we finally start to see men painting their nails again, and a lot of it has to do with the music and counter-culture movements of the time, from the punk rock to the New Romantic movement. With the punk rock scene's unisex approach to beauty and clothing, "it was the experimental, liberal attitude towards fashion that allowed nail art to catch on in the '70s", according to "Nails: A Story of the Modern Manicure." "It was the experimental, liberal attitude towards fashion that allowed nail art to catch on in the '70s." It helped that very influential people were doing it. Musicians Lou Reed, Iggy Pop, and Robert Smith all rocked painted nails with jet black being their color of choice. Oftentimes, the paint was chipped as perfection didn't matter here - the visibility did. Unlike today, it wasn't the manicure or the specific nail art these men cared about. The important part was that a man was wearing nail polish in the first place. One look at Adam Ant, Freddie Mercury, and Prince was all the evidence people needed at the time to understand that nail polish needn't be reserved for women. David Bowie took it one step further by experimenting with press-on nails, which was a bold move at the time. Bowie was the Godfather of experimentation, serving as an especially important icon for men when it came to breaking free of society's binary beauty conventions. Image Source: Getty During these decades, music was such an integral part of a young person's identity and often a form of rebellion against the way of life of their parents and grandparents. Nail polish was one aspect that gave men an extension of displaying this newfound, often rebellious identity. The Vital Role of Black Culture in the Nail Industry Black culture pushed boundaries and influenced an entirely new era of nail art (which as a whole topic is beyond the scope of this particular article). In the 1980s, American track and field athlete, Florence Griffith Joyner (Flo-Jo) was a pioneer in going against the status-quo of what was expected of an Olympian. "In certain cases, people like Flo-Jo were seen as unprofessional, the discourse of that conversation became extremely important as time has progressed," says Taja Slydell, co-founder of nail brand IV Kulture. "Now, what we're seeing is an equilibrium where the conversation, the culture, is colliding, and it's not seen as unprofessional anymore. It's seen as a part of personality." No one had quite as much personality as former basketball player Dennis Rodman. Famous for his vibrant hair and painted fingernails, Rodman's career started in the late '80s and lasted until 2006. In 2013, he expressed his love for nail art on Twitter in an exchange with a fan, writing: "I love to paint my nails. Nothing wrong with that. Be you. Always." Rodman's passion for beauty played an important role in the manicure scene and definitely helped sow the seeds of a more gender-neutral approach to nail art. Image Source: Getty The '90s Were a Peek Into What Was to Come Punk gave way to grunge in the 1990s, but rock musicians continued to sport nail polish as a way to rage against the machine. In fact, during this period, men's manicures became more deliberate and the color palettes widened - Nirvana's Kurt Cobain wore red polish, Pearl Jam's Eddie Vedder favored metallic shades, and Billie Joe Armstrong liked to mix and match different hues. One thing that didn't change? Chipped polish still reigned supreme. The '90s is when we see a clear merge of the '70s punk influences with this new age of experimentation. It not only serves as a clear indication of what was to come in the 2000s and beyond, but it also proves that the modern man's manicure didn't emerge out of the blue. Image Source: Getty Rappers Entered the Nail Chat and Changed the Game Male rappers and singer-songwriters entered the chat in the 2010s and the nail-art world was forever changed. Lil Yachty, Lil Nas X, Gunna, MNEK, Tyler the Creator, and Kid Cudi - the list goes on - are all known for wearing brightly-colored nail polish and intricate, hand-painted nail art. Compared to the '70s, '80s, and '90s, the manicures are much more deliberate, well-thought-out, and more collaborative, with these men often working with highly skilled nail technicians to bring their visions to life. For these artists, their nails are a very intentional part of not only their on-stage persona but also their music. "[A$AP Rocky] is a man who knows what he wants and where he's going," says Jenni Draper, celebrity manicurist who has worked with the artist. "He'll often have something to go along with a collaboration at the time, or smiley faces for the way he's feeling." Manicurist Michelle Humphrey echoed this, speaking of the time she worked with MNEK. "He knew exactly what he wanted, which was a chrome gold gel manicure. Although they're not a regular client of mine, they mentioned that they get chrome manicures on the regular," she says. "I love seeing that people are more comfortable about expression and understanding that products have no gender identity – they are for all," Yi says. Lil Yachty spoke to GQ about how a simple manicure makes him feel, regardless of creative nail art. "I got compliments instantly. I felt clean. My nails weren't dirty and nasty. I felt more mature," he says to the outlet, explaining that he was initially inspired by A$AP Rocky telling him to get a clear polish manicure. Unfortunately, though, some of these men have received criticism for their love of nail art, and have been forced to defend their choices in the press. Rapper Bad Bunny, for example, went public back in 2018 about a salon turning him away from treatment for being a man. Earlier this year, Kid Cudi hit back at criticismof his pink nails, tweeting "Seems people really have a problem w me painting my nails", adding that he turned the comments off on that particular post. Image Source: Getty The Modern Men's Manicure Gets Redefined With criticism comes change, and social media has been crucial for many artists sharing and influencing others to use nail art as a tool of self-expression and, in turn, breaking down gender stereotypes. "Much like the '70s, fashion and beauty standards based on genders are obsolete [in the 2020s]," says Brittney Boyce, celebrity nail artist and founder of Nails of LA. In addition to the rappers mentioned above, Harry Styles, Machine Gun Kelly, Pete Davidson, Post Malone, and J-Hope are all nail polish-wearing regulars in the music and entertainment space. And in sports, football player Celeb Williams, basketball player Jared McCain, and many more athletes are doing the same. This very public experimentation from celebrities has no doubt influenced a wave of fans sporting a glossy manicure in day-to-day life. "Nail art is just another form of art on our bodies. No different to a tattoo." "Now that people are starting to self-identify with pronouns, we're taking away the gender constructions of masculinity and femininity and seeing that there's a gender-neutral space for that type of self-expression," Slydell says. Salon owners and manicurists have seen this influence translate in everyday life, too. "I've got more men clients than ever right now," says Humphrey in regard to men's nail art requests. "Most are requesting gel manicures with designs so they can keep them for a few weeks. I'm also seeing an increase in men's manicures on my 'For You' and 'Explore' pages, which is great to see." South Coast-based salon owner Jaz Moger says that while her client base is predominantly women, she's seen an increase recently in people asking about men's manicures. "Nail art is just another form of art on our bodies. No different to a tattoo. Unlike a permanent tattoo, nail art can be chosen based on your outfit or your mood and it doesn't matter if you change your mind after a few days because it can be changed. There's no real commitment, which is what I love about it," she says. "After featuring on the "85 South Show" podcast, which is pretty much a male-dominated show, we definitely saw an influx of men clients," Tianna L. Hill, co-founder of nail brand IV Kulture, says. "As a society, we're starting to undo rules or what we think were rules before. I think that the future is young and the future is extremely bright. The future is actually taking more ownership of self-identity," Slydell says. Image Source: Pleasing Men's Manicures Equal Big Business The evolution of men wearing and experimenting with beauty and nail polish specifically has opened up a whole new world of opportunity within a billion dollar industry. For example, Lil Yachty debuted a nail polish brand Crete (though he is no longer associated with the brand), after learning a 17-year-old was suspended from a Texan school for wearing nail polish. Harry Styles founded nail polish and skin-care brand Pleasing, MGK launched his own nail brand UN/DN LAQR, and Tyler the Creator, launched Golf le Fleur, a beauty and accessories brand selling nail polish, fragrance, and more. In March 2023, Pete Davidson and MGK starred in a Calvin Klein ad together featuring the two getting their nails done. "Once you look at it from a monetary perspective, more businesses, more men, more men-backed investors are going to look at this industry under a new lens that they haven't before," Slydell says. See You All At the Salon The evolution of the male manicure is vast and significant. It has transformed from a display of wealth and status in society into simply another source of self-expression that transcends age-old gender constructs. Yi summed up men wearing nail polish and exploring nail art in the most perfect way: "What can be more macho than such utter security in one's own authenticity, and a wholehearted belief in beauty and freedom of expression for all?" Now, there's only one thing left to discuss: what shade are you going for? Related: Men in Hollywood Are Challenging Gender Norms Around Nail Art Tori Crowther was a former editor for POPSUGAR UK.