True to its name, the resort (also known as cruise) season inspires peak wanderlust. The feeling is only made greater by the fact that luxury houses often present their pre-season collections in cinematic destinations across the globe. For its part, Chanel took the idea of “cinematic” quite literally, kicking off the season with a splashy show staged at Los Angeles’s Paramount Studios. On May 9, Virginie Viard unveiled her sartorial ode to Hollywood against the backdrop of Paramount’s famous water tower where a massive movie screen played a video of a model Alma Jodorowsky channeling Jane Fonda in a beach workout video directed by Inez & Vinoodh. The presentation came a week after Chanel and its many brand ambassadors (among them, Kristen Stewart and Margot Robbie, who both sat front row) dominated the Met Gala—and just days after the maison opened its new Peter Marino-designed Beverly Hills boutique. Models hit the roller-rink-turned runway in terry cloth tweeds, glittering robe coats, chunky white sneakers, and gowns that called to mind Tinseltown’s Golden Age of glamour. It was all perfectly on theme for a wardrobe that conjures California dreams.
A week later, on May 16, Gucci became the first brand to ever hold a fashion show at the 14th century Gyeongbokgung Palace in Seoul. To a soundtrack created by Jung Jae-il, composer for such projects as Parasite and Squid Game, models including Sora Choi and Karen Elson traversed the historic courtyard wearing the final collection from Gucci’s in-house studio team ahead of Sabato de Sarno’s debut as creative director this fall.
Dior headed to Mexico City where Maria Grazia Chiuri presented a moving tribute to Frida Kahlo at the historic Colegio de San Ildefonso—the prestigious art school where Kahlo studied and first met Diego Rivera. Chiuri, who famously champions female artists at nearly every one of her presentations, worked with local artisans to deliver a collection that celebrated Mexican culture and craft.
Meanwhile, Nicolas Ghesquière brought Louis Vuitton to the picturesque Isola Bella on Lake Maggiore for his first-ever show in Italy. At the 17th-century Borromeo palazzo, the creative director conjured a sea-faring fantasy complete with siren-worthy gowns in aquatic hues.
Here, a look at the highlights. Check back often as we track the latest and greatest to hit the resort runways.
Proenza Schouler
Proenza Schouler
Proenza Schouler
Proenza Schouler
Proenza Schouler
Stella McCartney
Stella McCartney
Stella McCartney
Tory Burch
Tory Burch
Tory Burch
The Look: Relaxed luxury in the form of soft-tailoring, silk twills, jersey dresses, and Chantilly lace.
The Inspiration: Elegance with an attitude. A dialogue between the house’s Parisian heritage and a certain California cool.
The Look: Elevated wardrobe staples crafted with a sharp focus on sustainability. Rib knits made from lower-impact wool, smart separates cut from deadstock fabrics, and hemp denim developed with Adriano Goldschmied.
The Inspiration: “In the ever-rapidly moving world, I find solace in timeless design—pieces that are long-lasting in their execution and made to be atemporal with the hope of being passed down from one generation to the next,” said Gabriela Hearst, Creative Director of Chloé, in the show notes.
Carolina Herrera
Carolina Herrera
Carolina Herrera
Balenciaga
The Look: The house’s Garde-Robe wardrobe essentials including plaid-lined hoodies, oversized jackets, and denim along with dramatic wing-sleeved gowns and striking evening coats.
The Inspiration: The characters encountered in everyday life on the streets of Paris—from dog walkers to bike messengers—presented in a short film shot by Mau Morgó.
Balenciaga
Balenciaga
Balenciaga
Balenciaga
Louis Vuitton
The Look: An aquatic array of sporty neoprene separates, fishtail mini-skirts, elaborate organza gowns, mermaid sequins and sumptuous brocades.
The Inspiration: The island Isola Bella on Lake Maggiore and the idea of mythical sirens who according to the show notes, abandon their “aquatic dwellings for the discovery of terrestrial wonders.”
Louis Vuitton
Louis Vuitton
Louis Vuitton
Louis Vuitton
The Look: A blend of feminine dresses and masculine suiting. Full skirts worn with tunic tops. Vibrant embroideries and embellishments created in collaboration with Dior’s Paris atelier and local artisans from Oaxaca, Chiapas, and Puebla.
The Inspiration: Maria Grazia Chiuri was inspired by Frida Kahlo and how the artist transcended her body’s limitations through her clothes. Three-piece suits nodded to Kahlo’s defiance of gender norms while outfits reminiscent of those worn by Kahlo in her self-portraits were reinterpreted for today. Throughout the collection were butterfly accents and jewelry—a familiar motif and source of joy for the world-famous painter.
The Look: An homage to digital-age dressing. Cyberpunk goth stompers, glittering hoodie gowns, reinvented bomber jackets, skateboard bags, and edgy evening wear featuring playful jelly cake and cat illustrations by the South Korean artist Ram Han.
The Inspiration: The denizens of Seoul and a global wardrobe that transcends borders. Scuba boots and tops were inspired by the windsurfers and jet-skiers of the Han River. As the final collection from Gucci’s studio team, its designers and artisans interpreted “the house’s codes through their own individual and cultural gazes,” according to the show notes. Youthful touches abounded from the embellished Horsebit bags to the exaggerated versions of the famous Gucci web.
The Look: A complete wardrobe inspired by L.A. living through the decades. From Venice Beach-ready aerobic gear embellished with the house’s double Cs and light-up roller disco heels to a series of relaxed eveningwear that evoked “cinema’s halcyon age, its empress-like actresses, the bright lights of the projectors that illuminate them, and the eternal Californian sunshine,” per Chanel’s show notes.
The Inspiration: “Between a tribute to the glamour of great film stars and evoking the world of fun to be had with aerobics, sports, and roller skating, between the dream on one hand and what you want to wear on the other, it’s all a question of balance,” Virginie Viard said. “The idea is to offer a breath of fresh air, a voyage, a lighthearted and happy fantasy.”
This article was originally published on May 10, 2023
This post was originally published on W Magazine
